2011 Cote Rotie Terres Sombres

The richest of the three, the 2011 Cote Rotie Terres Sombres (100% Syrah aged 18 months in 60% new French oak) offers up classic aromas and flavors of rendered bacon fat, wild herbs, olive and creamy black raspberry fruit. Medium to full-bodied, with good richness, it has bright (almost racy, which is something to watch) acidity, fine tannin and excellent length. Give it another year and drink bottles over the following decade. Yves releases two cuvees from Cornas, and I found the quality consistent in 2012, yet preferred the Vires release by a fair margin in 2011. There are three Saint Joseph cuvees in red: the Les Pierres Seches, which comes from sand and granite soils around the town of Chavanay; the L'Amarybelle, which comes from high density, terraced plantings of older vines; and lastly, the Les Serines, which comes from the oldest vines of the estate and is the only cuvee to see new oak. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant Ltd., Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Glass-staining purple. Sexy, spice-accented aromas of dark fruit preserves, cola and incense. Sappy and smooth in texture, offering gently sweet blueberry and cherry-vanilla flavors and a hint of black tea. Supple tannins come up late and give shape to a long, gently sweet finish. Quite suave for this cuvee, which is typically the most brooding of Cuilleron's Cote-Roties.