2012 Coteaux Champenois La Cote Aux Enfants Rouge

Magnum. Bollinger needed red wine for their rosé so this is a reprise after concentrating on making red wine for the rosé. From a vineyard in Aÿ. Low yields. Cold maceration for five days. This is now sold younger than before – after two to four years. They are now using some whole bunch. 5,000 bottles made. Proper, very deep crimson. Spicy and a bit harsh on the nose at the moment. But very beguiling on palate – a real curiosity. Proper red wine. Dry finish. Not gentle but exceptionally concentrated for a still red in Champagne. Lots of tannins – almost Méo-Camuzet style. (JR)