2017 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Alte Reben
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Note di degustazione
Gentian, iris, mint, black tea, white peach and grapefruit are joined by a musky, elusively animal element for yet another spellbinding aromatic performance from these 120-year-old vines. There is a sense of pithy density and underlying firmness, but also a hint of silken texture, with bitter elements suggesting nutty concentration and sufficiently buffered to avoid outright austerity or jarring aggressiveness. The finish is both gripping and mouth-shaking, conveying a sense of pent-up energy being released, while leaving behind nearly ineradicable stony, ashen, smoky and glowingly piquant and trigeminal traces.
Punteggi della critica
Punteggio medio
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
Altre recensioni e punteggi
The 2017 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling Alte Reben GG is deep, intense and concentrated yet elegant and even fine on the slatey-flinty, lemon-fresh and herbal nose. Round and lush on the silky-textured and crystalline palate, this is a concentrated, powerful yet pure and enormously long and complex dry Riesling that ranks among the finest of the 2017 vintage in the Mosel. It's challenging right now, but in 10 or 20 years this should be a stunner. It is endlessly salty, with great complexity and mineral tension. Tasted from AP #19 in June 2019.
Big fruit may not be the primary target at van Volxem, but the Gottesfuss has plenty of it. It's a generous Grosses Gewächs, where the juicy opulence of grapefruit and orange is well balanced by a fresh minty component and a crunchy herbaceous note. Invigorating and fresh, plenty of substance. (MS)