2020 Centgrafenberg Spatburgunder Grosses Gewachs

80–90% whole bunch and 60% new oak. Light to mid crimson. Beautifully fragrant with stemmy red fruit (cherry), almost herbaceous, with a dusting of spice. More obviously oaky on the palate, rich but fresh, and the fruit and oak balance. Tannins are compact but very finely grained. Long and promising. (JH)

Aromatic, savoury wonder. Cool black-fruit aromas, quiet floral tones and accents of bitter almond and toast. Although it is the darkest of the three sites, complexity and power is offset by juicy elegance and a high-toned herbal character of fresh rosemary and mint. Firm tannins and a cool, restrained Franken soul. Beautiful now and for many years to come. (PS)

What a great nose of red fruits, candied orange and baking spices. Then comes the stunning combination of ripe fruit, spicy tannins and lively acidity on the generous and focused palate. Quite a bold finish, but it’s full of subtle nuances. Drink or hold.