2016 Saarburger Rausch Kabinett 5

Moss, wet stone, alkali and woodsmoke make for a highly distinctive as well as pungent aromatic alliance, though there are also scents of lime, grapefruit, mango and apple, which anticipate the juicy profusion featured on a subtly creamy, palpably dense yet buoyant palate. A hint of almond supplements the appeal of a bell-clear, lingering finish delightfully poised between lusciously fruity and intriguingly mineral elements. As usual chez Zilliken, high residual sugar – in this case, 58 grams – is almost magically canceled out in a delicious equation. (This year, due to paucity of grapes and to the fact that their best yields were in the oldest vines that tend to be showcased in single-vineyard bottlings, the Zillikens rendered no village-level Saarburger Kabinett.)

Ripe lemon citrus and a hint of white blossom. Ferny in its filigree finesse but not ferny in aroma. So elegantly beautiful. Razor-sharp freshness balanced by deep, fresh lemon and apricot flavours. Stunning combination of fruit purity, intensity and refinement and a long finish. VGV (JH)

A tantalising fragrance of orchard blossom and citrus fruit sets the scene for a classic Saar Kabinett performance. The taste buds are dazzled by vibrant fruit and invigorating acidity. Maybe a little leaner than in more generous vintages, the 2016 Rausch uses notes of green fruit and mint to emphasise a fresh and racy character that is quintessentially Saar Kabinett. Slender body and silky texture complete a class act. (MS)