2019 Sancerre les Monts Damnes

The 2019 Sancerre Le Mont Damné has an intensity and bounce to it as if it is heralding the start of an announcement on a tannoy: bing, bong, bing. Off this prized kimmeridgian soil vineyard above the village of Chavignol, it remains closed and a little uptight, making you wait for the big reveal. While many 2019 Sancerres were on the bigger side, this is taut and precise with no sense of any overripeness nor alcohol heaviness. It's not Sauvignon Blanc-like either, speaking more of its place than variety, which seems to be the goal of every producer in Sancerre, which is rather disrespectful to the grape in my mind. Instead, there's a crystalline character, a savoriness, crip apple and the merest hint of almond. Exemplary stuff.