2018 kupp Riesling Fass 18 Grosses Gewachs

Bittersweet notes of floral perfume, zesty kumquat, lime and roux mark the penetrating nose, and there is a corresponding piquant concentration of flavors on the full-bodied, subtly oil palate. A tart edge of crab apple, sizzle of sage and influx of mineral salts serve for invigoration and salivary stimulation on a gripping and multifaceted finish, albeit one that may disappoint those seeking refreshment. I can’t see the point of insisting that this wine needs time to reveal its stature, much less to be enjoyed – even though that seems to be the consensus among fellow critics. But the fact that it’s slightly lower in alcohol than its two 13% siblings renders it, in my experience, less likely to become encumbered by heat or harshness six or eight years on. That said, I have chosen to be conservative in my prognosis of ageability, and I would want to carefully monitor any bottles that resided in my cellar.