2020 kupp Riesling Fass 18 Grosses Gewachs
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Seeds and bruised skin prominently mark the apple fruit at the heart of the 2020 Riesling Ayler Kupp Grosses Gewächs No. 18, and its influx of citrus is more by way of grapefruit zest than juice. But an incisive note of pineapple core serves for welcome, tangy stimulation. There is a grainy but not unsatisfying sense of tanninity that segues into an impression of crushed stone suffusion – and fortunately, at 12.5% alcohol, no heat. Adamantly dry and pithily persistent, this is more formidable than fun. But it should prove well worth following – and hopefully my quantitative estimation of age-worthiness will prove overly conservative. I am certainly less concerned in regard to longevity than I have been about some significantly higher-alcohol Lauer Grosse Gewächse of recent years.
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Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
Altre recensioni e punteggi
Lauer’s 2020 Kupp GG Fass 18 shows a clear and pure yet intense, still a bit yeasty bouquet. The palate is quite rich and powerful but elegant, revealing a Kupp that needs some years to develop more finesse and charm. The wine is quite intense and lush and provided with tannins that still dry the palate a bit. Tasted in Wiesbaden in August 2021.
Pretty incommunicative on the nose. But convincing that there is a lot to come lurking underneath. Fruitier than any of its stablemates on the palate. Quite a contrast between the obvious charm on the palate and the obduracy on the nose. I assume this will all come together. Very persistent indeed. Positively vibrates on the finish. So much going on here! (JR)
Complex nose of wet ferns, wild berries and smoke. As cool and still as it is deep in the woods, this concentrated, tightly wound wine is just beginning to open up. Very classic, stony finish with noble austerity. Drinkable now, but best from 2023. Screw cap.