2017 St Joseph Rouge

The 2017 Saint Joseph comes from granite soils in the communes of Vion, Arras, and Sarras, and is brought up in 3- to 4-year-old barrels. It offers a deep purple color as well as a complex bouquet of blackberries, black cherries, sandalwood, ground pepper, and rare meat. It's medium-bodied, has a focused, structured feel, good length, and needs 3-4 years of bottle age. These releases are made by the young, Burgundy-trained Sylvain Gauthier, and they strike a good balance between modern and traditional styles. I found both 2017 reds to be impressive yet in need of bottle age. The two 2018 whites presented were both brilliant and drinking nicely.

Deep lurid violet. Scents of ripe black and blue fruits, olive and candied violet are lifted by a spicy pepper nuance. Lush, smooth and broad on the palate, offering gently sweet blackberry, cherry, licorice and dark chocolate flavors that slowly tighten up on the back half. Weighty yet energetic, finishing with building tannins, an echo of candied flowers and very good persistence. All used oak.

Lovely sweet black fruit with forthright but balanced new oak influence giving sweet spices. Thick and furry on the palate with smooth tannic feel, plenty of body and enough acidity to clean up the finish nicely. (RH)