1999 Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos

The 1999 Tokaji Aszu 5-Puttonyos is mainly Furmint and Harslevelu, delivering 161 grams per liter residual offset by 12.1- grams per liter acidity. It has an intense nose of mandarin, marmalade and quince that is not quite as harmonious as the 1993. The palate is very citric on the entry, with that piercing acidity cutting a swathe through the viscous orange peel, mandarin and grapefruit notes interlaced with caramel and nutmeg. This is drinking beautifully now, though it is a Tokaji I would prefer to consume accompanied with blue cheese or pudding rather than on its own. Drink now-2030+ Pajzos probably came to many people’s attention when no less than Robert Parker bestowed a perfect score to their 1993 Esszencia. I myself became familiar with the property through regular visits to Chateau Clinet, since proprietor Jean-Louis Laborde acquired the Tokaji estate from its previous owner, the late Jean-Michel Arcaute, in the 1990s. It was my last port of call during my week in Tokaji and I visited with winemaker Istvan Bai. It is a relatively isolated property, an uninhabited, modest-looking, slightly dishevelled house accessible by a long dirt track. Its isolation does not come without its drawbacks. Security guards patrol the vineyard to prevent thieves picking aszu berries to sell to unscrupulous winemakers. Though the uninhabited house is nothing much to look out, the magic begins as you descend into the maze of cellars that dates from the 13th century. The low-ceilinged cellar is covered in thick black mold and accommodates the used 168 and 220-liters barrels of fermenting Tokaji. It was here that I conducted the tasting. Chateau Pajzos has a distinct style of its own, the terroir tending to produce berries that are naturally higher in acidity than elsewhere. This was certainly evident in the Tokaji that were positively “zinging” with freshness and tension. I undertook a comprehensive tasting of current releases that range from dry Furmint to their extraordinary Esszencias (the spelling that they use.) Though their dry wines are definitely worth seeking out, it is clear that Tokaji Aszu is the focus, and as you ascend toward the higher sugar levels, you enter an ethereal realm. After a week tasting more than my fair share of rare Esszencia, I had not become blase about these elixirs, but for sure I could parse the astonishing from the merely “excellent.” And though I could not taste the 1993, Robert Parker nailed it because both the 1999 and 2000 Esszencias were spectacular, in particular the former, one of the most otherworldly wines I have ever tasted and completely different to any other Eszencia with hits rapier-like acidity that blitzed through the payload of sweetness without a care in the world and imbued with a kaleidoscope of flavors that ranged from crystalline honey to outrageous nutmeg notes. Not a purists’ choice for sure – they should opt for the sensual 2000. The 1999 Esszencia is reserved for those who want to experience something that they might never find again. I would add that these wines are also a steal considering the prices asked for Eszencias from other producers. Contact Russell Herman at World Wine Source Consulting; tel. (908) 771-9082; importers include V.O.S. Selections, New York, NY; The Country Vintner, Ashland, VA; Wines With Conviction, Dallas, TX; Adventures in Wine, Daly City, CA; Vin de Garde Wines, Portland, OR. Also Bordeaux Index (www.bordeauxindex.com) in the UK.