2001 Cornas Coteaux

The Cornas cuvees are the most concentrated, interesting offerings I tasted from Michel Tardieu’s 2001 northern Rhone portfolio. The dense, medium to full-bodied 2001 Cornas Coteaux offers an inky/purple color as well as a gorgeous perfume of liquid minerals, creme de cassis, coffee, and licorice. High tannin is balanced by equally high levels of fruit and glycerin. This huge yet surprisingly refined Cornas should hit its peak in 3-4 years, and last for 15+. While the gifted Michel Tardieu has fashioned dense, powerful, backward 2001s, the quality is well behind that of such recent years as 1999, 1998, and 1997. Nevertheless, there are some strong offerings, particularly the two Cornas cuvees. Importers: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808 and Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0039

Full saturated ruby. Very dark fruit aromas of cassis, kirsch, mulberry, licorice, pepper and herbs, with a vaguely illegal resiny quality. Dense but sharply delineated, with flavors similar to the aromas; a very intense wine of noteworthy individuality. Finishes juicy and very long, with fine tannins and late notes of peppery spices, herbs and minerals. Tardieu gives the edge to the 2000 version for its phenolic maturity but I find this more complex from barrel than the 2000 was a year ago.