2006 Forster Kirchenstück Riesling QbA trocken Edition GC

The Burklin-Wolf 2006 Forster Kirchenstuck Riesling trocken GC exhibits site-typical ripe peach and musky, decadent floral nuances. Voluminously rich and rounded on the palate, its creaminess of texture is enhanced by the effect of malo-lactic transformation, and the hint of spice and lanolin conveyed by a new-ish cask is also quite synergistic. Polished and satisfying in length, this manages to retain the element of intrigue one expects of Kirchenstuck and that piques one’s curiosity to revisit this wine over the next 7-9 years. It had been too many years since I last visited the Burklin-Wolf estate. Former director (and co-owner) Chrsitian von Guradze has departed, but Bettina Burklin and her cellar master Fritz Knorr clearly have things very much in hand. They rendered an outstanding 2005 collection as well as the best collection of dry 2006 Pfalz Riesling I tasted, the latter from a vintage in which they suffered about a two-thirds loss in normal crop levels, and from which no nobly sweet wines were essayed. Incidentally, given the low level of interest among their German clients for residually sweet wine, Burklin-Wolf is now releasing Auslesen from the late 1990s under the letter-designation “R” (for “reserve”), some of them – such as the 1998 Forster Pechstein Riesling Auslese R (which I rated 94) – truly exciting. Importer: Classical Wines, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 547-0255