2020 Kusuda Pinot Noir

Served blind alongside Thibault Liger-Belair's Les St-Georges , another very fine wine. Mild peppery nose initially, developed extraordinary complexity with time in the glass. More freshness than the Nuits and extremely long. This subtle wine built towards the finish in a decidedly burgundian way, which I see I also noted when I tasted it in February 2023 . (JR)

The 2020 Pinot Noir leads with cherries and white strawberry on the nose, plus layers of dried tobacco, white pepper, hints of wet wool and graphite through the finish. It's intriguing and good. In the mouth, the wine is texturally svelte, not a hair out of place. The finish is creamy and soft, sort of open-throated/open-weave (but refrains from looseness, as it holds shape beautifully). This is a complex wine that feels settled and complete. Superb. 14% alcohol, sealed under 54-millimeter cork. 5,079 bottles produced this year.

Hand-planted by the grower who eventually sold it to Hiro Kusuda, who had been buying the fruit for ages. 11% whole bunch. Aged for 15 months in barriques, 22% new. Quite a deep crimson. Intense and not immediately showy on the nose. Beautiful balance and delicacy. Long and builds towards the end. The most appetising of the lot. (JR)