Jacques Selosse Le Bout du Clos (2022 Disgorgement)

The NV Ambonnay Le Bout du Clos, from two south-facing plots within the same lieu-dit in Ambonnay, is composed of approximately 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay, which are picked and pressed together following strict selection. Informed by its brown, sticky clay soil, structurally reminiscent of Les Amoureuses in Chambolle-Musigny, and disgorged in February 2024 with 1.5 grams per liter dosage, it offers aromas of dried flowers, smoke, Asian pear, orange zest and spices. Powerful yet precise, it is a harmonious and multidimensional wine with a rich core of fruit underpinned by vibrant acidity. Featuring a fine mousse and concluding with a long, saline finish, it is a superb expression from the village. Like the other lieu-dit bottlings this year, it is based on the 2017 vintage and complemented by a perpetual reserve component that, for Le Bout du Clos, dates back to 2002.

The highlight in this flight of Pinot Noirs, the NV (2009) Extra-Brut Ambonnay Le Bout du Clos is simply magnificent. The towering, regal presence of Ambonnay comes through loud and clear in a Champagne that covers every corner of the palate with voluptuous depth and pure textural richness. A crescendo of aromas, flavors and textures builds into the huge, creamy finish. What a gorgeous wine this is. If opened young, the 2009 needs quite a bit of air to blow off some reductive notes.

The NV Extra-Brut Grand Cru Le Bout du Clos is all about power, depth and pure structure. The weight and gravitas of Ambonnay comes through beautifully in this intense, layered Champagne. Hard candy, wild flowers, mint and spice are some of the many notes that take shape in the glass. The current release is a blend of vintages 2004 and 2005, two years that are very much complimentary in nature. I drank several bottles of the Bout du Clos during a recent trip in Italy, and was never let down. This is a gorgeous showing. Today the Bout du Clos has an implosive, huge minerality that keeps the wine from being fully expressive, but in another few years, the wine should start to be even better than it is today. Disgorgement date: April 13, 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. Oct 2012, www.robertparker.com