2009 St Joseph Domaine de la Croix des Vignes

The 2009 St.-Joseph Domaine de la Croix des Vignes (which sees about 20% new French oak) exhibits an elegant perfume of blackberries, blueberries and raspberries, subtle smoke and spring flowers. A crushed rock-like/steely character is also apparent in the mouth. Brilliantly combining both elegance and substance, this beauty can be enjoyed over the next 12-15 years. One needs no further evidence of the extraordinary turn around in the quality of the Jaboulet wines than what proprietress Caroline Frey has accomplished in 2009 as well as 2010. As I indicated last year, this is one of the great qualitative turn arounds in the wine world. It is welcomed by all wine lovers given the historic legacy of the wines of Jaboulet and the importance of this famous firm in all of France. Ms. Frey, who is also responsible for the brilliant wines produced at La Lagune in Bordeaux, has reduced the amount of new oak for the red wines to about 20% and to negligible proportions for the whites. A second wine of Hermitage, La Petite Chapelle, is fashioned from 33% or more of the production that is culled out to guarantee that the great reputation of the Hermitage La Chapelle has enjoyed over the last century is maintained. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Glass-staining ruby. Dark berry and cherry compote on the nose, with notes of anise, tobacco and herbs adding complexity. Lush mulberry and blackcurrant flavors are pure and nicely focused, with no obvious tannins and a seductively sweet quality. Finishes on a lively bittersweet cherry note, showing very good persistence and a sneaky mineral nuance.

Another new domaine! Very deep purplish crimson. There’s a really confident glow of ripeness and silkiness from this wine. Silky and easy. Just a slightly simple mulberry note. Polished and easy and racy. Early drinking and not as earthy as the Chave examples but very well made. Should give lots of pleasure. (JR)