2008 Meandro de Vale Meao Tinto

The 2008 MEANDRO DO VALE MEAO is a principally a big three blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca, with 5% each dollops of Tinta Amarela, Sousao and Tinto Cao to fill out the blend. This may be a good example of how many ’08s will show in many respects. It is tight and crisp, a little compact, but structured well enough that you could assume its price category was double what it is. It is a bit hard and austere at this point, very much unlike the sexier ’07 Meandro. With hints of game and some crispness, it should evolve well and into something that has some complexity. It is approachable, but it needs some patience to show its best. Once it settles down, it should be quite lovely. It does have some upside potential and may yet prove to have something more with cellaring. In most any vintage now, you can’t go wrong buying this second wine from this estate in the Douro Superior—it has become one of the go-to values in the Douro and in the best vintages it is a formidable wine in its own right, ageworthy and inexpensive. Drink 2012-2022. Importer: W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Harrison, N.Y.; tel: (914) 251-3209.