2004 Krug Grande Cuvee

Pinot Noir 37%, Chardonnay 39% and Pinot Meunier 24%. Predominately premier and grand cru vineyards, the Pinot Noir from Ambonnay, Aÿ, Bouzy, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, the Chardonnay from Avize, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Trépail, Villers-Marmery and the Pinot Meunier from Coulommes-la-Montagne, Saint-Gemme, Villevenard. 13 years on lees, disgorged spring 2016, dosage 6 g/l. Launched in 2017 when Krug's theme was the seaside. As Olivier Krug pointed out, vintage champagnes are 'the story of the year. Not a better champagne.' They make this wine after the Grande Cuvée. In 2012 no vintage was made as it was all saved for reserves. Vintage wines made when there is enough wine left. 2004 was a big and late harvest with beautiful weather in September. Very pale gold. Zesty citrus, bright. More autolytic character than on the 172nd Grande Cuvée but it is a gentle toastiness. 2003 was hot and early. 2004 was big and very late. In the mouth, extremely creamy citrus, pure, gentle, a hint of greengage and extreme freshness. Apparently, this has barely aged since its release. Very little bottle-aged character (typical of 2004, suggests Krug).There's the saline briny freshness of the seaside. Rounded yet bright, too. 'Luminous' is a very good word chosen by Krug to refer to this. (JH)