2015 Forster Riesling Freundstuck GG

I generally find the wines from this diminutive site – of which von Buhl owns the original core and nearly half of the current Einzellage – the most filigreed of Forsters and (like Pechstein in its very different way) by no means less classy than Jesuitengarten or Kirchenstück. “But not everybody understands Freundstück’s elegance,” remarked Kauffmann, who elected to give this wine 20 months on the lees. “That’s to give it more stuffing?” I asked. “It’s very interesting what’s come of it,” was his only reply. Well, this is indeed among those von Buhl 2015s to exhibit more bulk and body. It’s also strongly marked by oak resin from having resided in a relatively new cask, though it’s also entirely possible that there was greater wood extraction due to higher alcohol. But the wine certainly exhibits the prominent chalkiness and mouthwatering salinity I also associate with its site, the latter helping to keep the strong piquancy of pit and seed as well as the underlying stoniness of its sustained finish from coming off as austere. Don’t come here looking for prominent fruit or delicate interaction of flavors. On the other hand, if you want an especially full-bodied, dense, not to mention unique example of Riesling as a delivery device for mineral characteristics, and one that will be intriguing to follow, this is your wine.