2013 Henri Giraud Grand Cru Ay Fut de Chene d'Argonne (2020 Release)

The 2013 Argonne is a typical Giraud Champagne built on textural opulence and vinous intensity. Apricot, nutmeg, spice, honey vanillin and new oak infuse the 2013 with striking dimension. Vinification and aging in 100% new oak exalts the natural richness of these old, south-facing vineyards in Aÿ. This is a fabulous showing for a vintage that saw quite a bit of rain and disease pressure right before harvest. As always, Argonne is a blend of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay. Dosage is 6 grams per liter. Disgorged: December 15, 2020. (Originally published in May 2021)

The 2013 Brut Grand Cru Aÿ Argonne is the latest in a series of superb releases from Giraud. Unwinding in the glass with notes of buttered toast, crisp yellow orchard fruit, honeycomb, warm spices and ripe stone fruits, it's full-bodied, deep and vinous, with a layered core of concentrated fruit, incisive acids and an elegant pearly mousse. Long and penetrating, it's finer-boned than its richer, more muscular 2012 predecessor; but like that more structured wine, it will reward bottle age.

Tart tartine, brioche, green apple, and hints of ripe fresh herbs. Menthol, too. It’s very direct and powerful with vivid acidity and a dry, racy finish. Tight and compressed with an elegant structure. Linear and very energetic. Turns decadent and flavorful at the end. Shows the cold growing season. Subtle and complex. Single-vineyard wine. 90% pinot noir and 10% chardonnay. Drink or hold.