2017 Halgans Monzinger Riesling

Scents and brightly-juicy palate presence of lime, white peach and red raspberry are already familiar from this year’s “Mineral” bottling; and the same goes for subtly, intriguingly fusil, oily and marine notes announced already on the nose. The feel here is quite plush and glycerol-rich but at the same time there is a sense of underlying stoniness. The vibrant, resonant, bell-clear finish features a refreshing edginess of zesty citrus and a shimmering array of mineral nuances. (This effectively serves as the second wine to Schönlebers’ Halenberg Grosses Gewächs, as explained in further detail in my review of its inaugural, vintage 2015 installment).

The village-level Halgans may be only the estate’s second dry wine from the Monzinger Halenberg, but its substance and concentration would grace many other estates’ Grosse Gewächse. Fumy, flinty, chalky, but it’s unmistakably Riesling, not Pouilly-Fumé. Fruit and herbaceous zest are not missing, but play second fiddle to the compact minerality. A rich texture makes sure that things don’t turn too austere on the palate. (MS)