2017 Armand Rousseau Chambertin 2007-2018

The 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru shows the influence of oak on the nose at the moment, slightly occluding the fruit profile and terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and well-judged acidity that cuts effortlessly through the new oak. It will need several years to fully absorb the wood, but there is real substance and persistence in situ. Patience. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.

The 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru is just a glorious success. Vivid red fruit, Morello cherries, wild strawberry and pressed violets on the nose, the aromatics here feel so animated and exquisitely defined. The palate is perfectly balanced with a killer line of acidity: crystalline red fruit, filigree tannins and more freshness than it knows what to do with. There is a sense of "channeled intensity" in this Chambertin and whilst there is no question that it is a 20 to 30-years wine, I felt no guilt in polishing this off in its youth. Tasted at Maison de Colombier in Beaune.

Clear bright light to medium purple. A sensual and even slightly smoky nose. Unusual but not at all unattractive and I am sensing a density of fruit, with brisk red berry notes, filling the palate. I think this will only improve with time. 95and growing.