2012 Clos Vougeot Le Grand Maupertuis

(tasted from tank): Very good dark red-ruby. Pristine aromas of cassis, black cherry, violet and mint accented by exotic high-pitched spices and complicated by a whiff of leather. Sappy, chewy and consistent; an explosive essence of black fruits, violet and spices. Today this seems more filled in on the mid-palate than the Richebourg. A knockout in the making: my score may turn out to be overly conservative.

70% new oak. Very dark crimson. Almost gamey/animal. Quite severe. Juicy fruit on the front palate and then quite severe oak tannins. Needs a heck of a lot of time – quite different from the Échezeaux from the same stable, even though it was made in just the same way – though a bit more new oak. It needs so much time! (JR)

The 2012 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is a real showstopper. It has a fragrant floral bouquet with dark berry and dark plum fruit joined by dried violet petals with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with quite a firm structure underneath that layer of dark berry fruit. Lovely focus here, real breeding and dare I say it might even trump the Richebourg! Superb. After modest success with her 2011s, it was great to come back to this domaine to find eternally youthful pixie-like Anne Gros back on form with a gaggle of gorgeous 2012s. Anne, the cousin of Bernard, Michel and Anne-Francoise, is one of the most conscientious winemakers I know, somebody who lives for her family, whether that is her three children or her vines. She exacts a meticulous picking, which in 2012 commenced on 21 September and lasted over three weeks until the 15 October up in her “Hautes Cotes” vines. I have written several times about this domaine, which I visited on my first Burgundy trip back in 1997. They have a slightly modern sheen like her cousin Bernard Gros, but here they are slightly more nuanced and terroir-driven. Quantities are small and sought after, and in 2012 her piece de resistance might not be the Richebourg, rather one of the best Clos de Vougeot wines of the vintage. But do not ignore either her excellent Hautes Cotes de Nuits white or red (or indeed her superb joint venture with partner Jean-Paul Tollot down in sunny Minnervois.) Importers: various importers (go to http://www.anne-gros.com/en/in-the-world.html) and several importers in both the US and UK.