2019 Ao Yun

Neat nose reminiscent of fine bordeaux but a little bit tarter. And with a real pinch on the (admirably persistent) finish. Can’t really see any European paying this price. Unless for curiosity value. (JR)

800 g of fruit per Cabernet vine in 2019 (2015 was 1,400 g) – equivalent to 16 hl/ha. Harvest lasted 72 days across their different vineyards, from 9 September to 21 November. Nickname for this vintage is 'The Humble': 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Cabernet Franc, 10% Syrah, 6% Petit Verdot. Villages: 23% Xidang, 21% Sinong, 32% Shuori, 24% Adong. 35% new oak, 35% old oak, 30% stoneware jar. The equivalent of 31,795 bottles were produced. Very alluring blackcurrant fruit – such impressive intensity and purity. Comes across as one of the top of its type in a very New World fruit-driven way; yet there is a very European sensibility to the palate with staunchly savoury character and very high acid. Long, liquorice and bitter-herb finish. This vintage certainly seems to have the stature of a grand vin. (RH)

The 2019 Ao Yun is seriously impressive. Bright, fresh and vibrant in the glass, the 2019 is a wine of energy more than size. Crushed red berry fruit, blood orange, mint, cinnamon, cedar and sweet pipe tobacco are all finely cut in this mid-weight, Cabernet Sauvignon-based red. In 2019 the blend is 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Cabernet Franc, 10% Syrah and 6% Petit Verdot from the villages of Shuori, Xidang, Adong and Sinong, aged in 35% new oak, 35% once-filled barrels and 30% stone jarres. It’s a fine effort from the team led by Technical Director Maxence Dulou, a Bordeaux native who spent time in Chile, South Africa and several prestigious Bordeaux châteaux (including Cheval Blanc, Le Tour de Pin and Quinault L’Enclos) before moving with his young family to China in 2013 to head this ambitious project for LVMH.