2019 Saarburger Rausch Spatlese

The Riesling Saarburger Rausch Spätlese A.P. #1 signifies, as is the Zillikens’ usual practice, that they consider it the apex of this particular vintage collection. The nose signals a major departure from the wines that preceded it in this vintage collection. Date, white raisin, overripe quince and poire distillate are accompanied by candied suggestions, smoky and horseradish-like prickle and a note of caramelized resin that would seem to originate with oak. (For more about this estate’s active renewal of casks, consult my introduction to their vintage 2015 collection.) Overripe pear and quince dominate on the palate, while brown spice and savory saline notes lend welcome counterpoint to a lingering finish that, while dominantly sweet, manages to maintain a modicum of primary juiciness. Right now, this bottling’s ostensibly lesser A.P. #3 counterpart is more polished and harmonious, a situation that my intuition suggests to me will remain the case. (I inquired more than once what was the A.P. #2 of this vintage – because Zilliken wines are nearly always numbered in reverse order of perceived stature – but was not informed. Perhaps this is some interesting secret.)