2020 Boekenhoutskloof Semillon

The 24th vintage. 98% Sémillon from these old vines (20% 1932, 55% 1936, 23% 1942). In this vintage, they added 2% early-picked Muscat of Alexandria (1902) rather than the Sauvignon Blanc added in earlier vintages. Whole-bunch pressed and spontaneously fermented in barriques and concrete eggs. Matured at low temperatures for 14 months, 70% in new French oak and 30% in concrete eggs. The Muscat fermented in clay amphora. TA 5.4 g/l, pH 3.41, RS 2 g/l. Gottfried Mocke's first vintage was 2016 and this vintage shows some of the changes in the cellar, with SO 2 added at an earlier stage and less new oak. Very pale. Completely different from the 2010 and the 2009. Much more obvious flintiness and a touch of struck match (more deliberate sulphides). Herbal, grapefruit, with the fine waxy texture of Sémillon even with all this freshness. It's the winemaking that marks the aroma at the moment. Super-smoky on the palate. Full and textured in the mouth, great length. Mouth-watering, powerful, elegant. Long and still embryonic. (JH)

The 2020 Semillon Boekenhoutskloof comes from three parcels of old vines, one parcel planted in 1902 and an adjacent one in 1942 (50% of the blend) and includes a seasoning of Muscat d'Alexandria also planted in 1902 that is purposefully picked underripe. This is aged in 70% new oak. It has a wonderful, vivacious bouquet with honeysuckle, jasmine, lemon rind and lanolin. It's one of the finest Semillon aromatics that I have encountered. The palate has a vibrant, slightly flinty opening and a tiny reduction that according to winemaker Gottfried Mocke, ebbs after a couple of years (he opined this comes from the soils quarts content). Lovely tension here with lemon curd and peach skin notes towards the persistent finish. Superb.