2018 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese

A stunning Auslese with a wealth of tropical-fruit aromas and delicate, spicy notes that underplays its considerable concentration, until you get to the long finish, in which spicy and smoky notes mingle with caramelized pineapple. Drink or hold.

In my late November 2019 tasting session, this was the sole bottling that exhibited significant aromatic interference of a yeasty, faintly cheesy sort. But that temporary imperfection is easy to forgive in light of what follows. Behind the fermentative notes emerge appealing scents of vanilla, almond and hazelnut extracts, lily and honeysuckle perfume, as well as evocations of jellied quince and pear. The palate evinces surprising similarity to that of the corresponding Bernkasteler Badstube, featuring vanilla cream, marzipan, and hazelnut paste, with a glossy feel accompanied by delightful delicacy. The long-lasting finish is luscious and soothing, perpetuating floral perfume in liquid form; hints of juicy, zesty lime and black tea smokiness help balance the nut paste, confectionary and jellied fruit elements. The sheer concentration, palate purity and multilayered richness being delivered here from allegedly totally healthy fruit are remarkable.