2016 Les Carmes Haut Brion (Marie-Jeanne)

The 2016 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is consistent with previous bottles. It soars from the glass with those (to use a word I used last time) disarming array of blackberry, iris and fig aromas, but displaying a little more blue fruit than I recall. The palate is very well balanced with a velvety texture, pure with just a hint of black pepper. Interestingly, the 65% whole bunches are barely noticeable, just a guiding hand that shapes the finish. Sapid yet tender, this is an outstanding Pessac-Léognan. Tasted from an ex-château bottle at the Icons of Bordeaux dinner at Legacy Records in New York.

41% Cabernet Franc, 39% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. 60% whole-bunch vinification. Aged 24 months in new oak barrel (80%), foudre (10%) and amphora (10%) Deep crimson to the rim. Fragrant nose with dark-fruit and floral notes. Dense and suave on the palate, the fruit again expressive with a hint of blackcurrant coming through. Juicy as well, the quality of tannin extremely refined. More freshness than 2015. Clean and long on the finish. Lovely balance. (JL)

Subdued power with cassis and blackberry fruits, liqourice root, cocoa beans and a wall of tannins that retains an air of controlled restraint at 6 years old. Maintains momentum and energy through the palate,with a saline lick of crushed rocks on the finish. This is sculpted, moreish, delicious. As with the 2015, a vintage again that Carmes has its own personality, and doesn't follow the pack. New winery, with softer infusion-method for the extraction of flavours and tannins, and 60% stems. Ageing takes place in a mix of 25% new oak, 5% oak casks, and 10% amphoras.