2003 St Joseph Le Berceau Blanc

(100% marsanne, from vines planted in 1920 on granite and sand) Complex nose combines peach, lemon, vanilla and menthol. Rich and minerally but firmer than the classique, despite its suggestion of honeyed superripeness. Seamless and persistent. This spent a full year on its lees, with regular batonnage The stirring of the lees brought more fat, noted Fabrice Gripa, while reducing the burning aspect of the alcohol.