2015 Nicolas Maillart Les Jolivettes

100% mass-selection Pinot Noir planted in 1987 in the middle of a south-facing slope, grown fairly biodynamically on a 0.6 ha single vineyard on chalk. Picked on 13 September with a potential alcohol of 11.3%. All fermented in oak and left for more than six months on the lees. No malo. Disgorged September 2019. Zero dosage. 3,626 bottles. A lot of information on a very readable back label. Chapeau! Very pale copper colour. Not especially frothy to look at but it does rather explode in the mouth. Not as dramatic on the nose as the Roses de Jeanne or the Eric Rodez Blanc de Noirs. Rather mild impression on the nose, and indeed on the palate. Still a bit astringent. Not (yet?) beautifully integrated. Amazing that a wine with zero dosage can taste almost sweet. The Bouzy effect? Just seems slightly less intense than the other two Pinots in this collection. (JR)