2015 Piesporter Riesling 12 16

I had been under the impression – which may have been accurate until last year – that Haart intended to keep the terms trocken or halbtrocken off his labels, given that his wines without Prädikat would taste dry but might fall on either side of the legal dividing line. Still, given a mere five grams of residual sugar, he may have felt tasters should be warned about this cuvée from 30-year-old vines in the Goldtröpfchen. Strikingly citric, it displays pungent scents and a bright, juicy, zesty palate presence of lemon, grapefruit and kumquat. The expansive, subtly oily, rich midpalate reflects alcoholic body just shy of 13 percent. Smoky, stony and pungent marjoram-like notes add interest to a finish that’s decidedly piquant but not at the expense of refreshment or transparency.

Sourced from lesser plots and younger vines in the Goldtröpfchen, the 2015 Piesporter Riesling is pretty intense in its stony citrus and ripe apple flavors. Dense and very powerful on the palate, with some irritating bitter flavors in the finish, this wine has a certain juiciness but lacks finesse, precision and a more stimulating piquancy.

AP number 12 16. Tingly and really rather electric and thrilling on the nose. Bone dry but with a rich panoply of fruit flavours. Great presence in the mouth. VGV (JR)