2020 Krettnacher Euchariusberg Kabinett alte Reben 'Gisela' 08 21

While the adjacent vines that inform the Webers’ Euchariusberg Kabinett A.P. #12 are old, those for the 2020 Riesling Krettnacher Euchariusberg Kabinett Alte Reben (in a parcel with the nickname Gisela, which now appears in fine print on the label) are much older, as well as on their own rootstock. White currant and crab apple are laced with cress for a pungently aromatic and tartly bracing, incisive palate impression. This is one of those frequent instances at Hofgut Falkenstein where density is strikingly allied to alcoholic levity. A mouth-shakingly resonant finish speaks to this wine’s depth as well as to what it still has in reserve, evoking the flesh and liquor of raw oyster in its mouthwateringly savory amalgam of carnal, nutty, herbal and mineral elements. If there were one vintage 2020 offering from this estate that I was going to keep my corkscrew off of in the short run (not saying that I would have the willpower), it would be this old-vines Kabinett.