NV Sugrue Cuvee Dr Brendan O’Regan MV (2016 Base)

The 2016 Brut Cuvée Dr Breandan O'Regan, tasted from magnum, is a Hampshire-grown single-vineyard blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. Flint and smoke lead the aromas, with fragrant hedgerow fruit suggesting tart berry and wet stone, framed by lemon. The palate combines soil, fruit and reductive smokiness, a delight for fizz-lovers. Intense ripe lemon, tart berry and juicy red apple make the mouth water, while fine creamy mousse softens the essential English briskness. Aromatics dominate the slender finish. This wine has just begun its journey and will be a joy for years. Disgorged: January 2023.

60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir. Blend named after the man who developed both Shannon Airport and duty-free shopping. From the Mount Harry vineyard in East Sussex, planted in May 2006 on clay loam over chalk and the Storrington Priory vineyard in West Sussex planted at the same time on greensand. Base wine 2016 and a bit of 2009. 50% fermented in old 500-litre burgundy barrels and 50% in tank. No malo. Tasted blind. Pale bronze. Chalky nose. Then rather green and leafy on the palate. Hedgerows and definitely English! Just a little demanding at the moment. Very marked acidity. Needs time. (JR)

Slow fermentation and maturation in old burgundian barrels and stainless steel. Bottled without filtration. Most of the fruit comes from the Mount Harry vineyard near Lewes, a 2.5 ha vineyard entirely on South Downs chalk. Based on 2013 vintage. 60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir. Rich shortbread and clotted cream shot through with lemon marmalade. Hazelnuts. Rich, intense cooked citrus and a finely knit mousse. It has the beautiful balance and fabulous autolytic weight that you would expect from a top-notch champagne. Long, fiercely poised and precise, it reminds me of an Olympian athlete. (TC)