2019 Boekenhoutskloof Semillon

Vines planted 1902, 1936 and 1942. TA 5.5 g/l, pH 3.34, RS 2.6 g/l. Heady and rich, with Sémillon’s characteristic green note in spades. Very rich start and such a pleasure. It’s a real joy. Complex. Smoky and green. (JR)

Full bottle 1,348 g. Still the same old vines from the 1942 block (same property as Muscat block planted in 1902 whose grapes are early-picked, skin fermented and aged in amphora). This famous old-vine Sémillon wine has not included any Sauvignon since 2016. La Colline block used to be sold to others such as Thorne & Daughters and Alheit. Their most expensive grapes. Made in new barriques (70%) and concrete eggs (30%). Just released. Green-grape nose and lovely creamy texture. I can see a relationship with a rich Pessac-Léognan. Super-clean and fresh but undertow of richness. (JR)

The 2019 Sémillon, one of my favorite cuvées from this producer, has a wonderful bouquet of peach skin and orange blossom scents, all extremely well defined. The balanced palate offers superb concentration on the entry, flavors of praline mixed with citrus fruit and almond, and an almost resinous note toward the finish. It’s tempting to drink this now, but it deserves 3–5 years in bottle.