2018 Gigondas La Colline

Coming from a tiny 1.5-hectare portion of clay and limestone soils and all old vine Grenache, the 2018 Gigondas La Colline is another gorgeous wine from this estate that strikes a balance between richness and elegance. More ruby-hued (these wines are never the deepest hued in Gigondas) and with a killer perfume of kirsch liqueur, framboise, herbes de Provence, chocolate, roasted herbs, and chalky minerality, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, ultra-fine tannins, no hard edges, and a gorgeous, heady finish. This cuvée is almost always the more powerful and concentrated in the lineup, yet in 2018 it shows the more elegant, seamless style of the vintage beautifully. It’s going to benefit from a year or two of bottle age and drink fabulously well for a decade. The young Julien Brechet continues to keep this estate in the top tier of producers, not only in Gigondas, but in the entire Southern Rhône. His 2018s show the more supple, elegant style of the vintage yet still bring ample richness and depth. These are seamless, Provençal, incredibly sexy wines to enjoy over the coming decade or so. The 2019s are slightly deeper, richer wines yet still show beautiful purity and elegance. In addition to the quality, these wines show singular character and are just a joy to taste through.

Deep, brilliant ruby-red. A hugely perfumed bouquet evokes ripe red berries, baking spices, garrigue and incense. A smoky mineral element builds steadily in the glass. Smooth and seamless in texture, offering palate-staining raspberry, cherry-cola, spicecake and floral pastille flavors that convey a suave marriage of depth and energy. Finishes spicy, gently tannic and extremely long, leaving lingering notes of juicy red berries, five-spice powder and candied lavender behind.

Aged for 18 months in concrete and old oak. Tank sample. Tasted blind. Sweet red fruit, lots of oak giving vanilla and clove spice to the palate. Very Christmassy. Lengthy finish with bright, juicy fruit to the last. (RH)