2017 Cote Rotie Lancement

This is the third time I've tasted Stéphane Ogier's 2017 Cote Rotie Lancement, and it has been consistently outstanding. Vaguely floral notes add intrigue to the deep raspberry and cassis fruit, balanced by more savory notes of coffee beans and charred beef. It's medium to full-bodied, sturdy and muscular, with plentiful (but ripe) tannins that give the lengthy finish a rich, velvety texture. I suspect it will close down shortly, then reemerge in several years and drink well through 2040.

Glass-staining violet color. Displays an array of ripe dark fruit, floral and spice qualities on the powerfully scented nose, along with building mineral and succulent herb notes. Broad and fleshy in texture, offering deeply concentrated blackberry, boysenberry, cherry and violet pastille flavors that are enlivened by intense mineral and cracked pepper flourishes. Shows superb delineation and mineral thrust on the youthfully tannic finish, which emphatically repeats the floral note.

A classic wine from this terroir, the 2017 Côte Rôtie Lancement offers a massive bouquet of black raspberries, ground pepper, violets, and bacon fat. Deep, rich, full-bodied, concentrated, and powerful, it's nevertheless perfectly balanced, elegant and seamless. It's another 2017 that needs 4-6 years of bottle age. Unquestionably, one of the most exciting domaines in the world of wine today is that of superstar winemaker Stephane Ogier, who continues to purchase and plant new vineyards throughout Côte Rôtie and the Northern Rhône. I was blown away by his 2017s, and his Côte Rôtie Côte Blonde is unquestionably one of the wines of the vintage, as well as one of the greatest Côte Rôties I’ve had the opportunity to taste. While it’s still in barrel, the Côte Rôtie Belle Helene is another wine with perfection written all over it. In general, his 2017s shows ripe, expressive aromatics and tons of fruit, yet they have a firm, structured vibe on the palate and need bottle age. The 2018s, which are from a vintage compared to 1991 by Stéphane, show a slightly more rounded, seamless profile with silkier tannins. These wines shine for their purity of fruit as well as balance. While the expensive releases get all the attention, don’t miss the La Rosine, L’Ame Soeur, Saint Joseph, or Côte Rôtie Mon Village from this estate. These are terrific wines that offer loads of character and represent smoking values for the true wine lovers and wine drinkers out there.