2008 Westhofener Brunnenhauschen Abtserde GG

Keller’s 2008 Westhofener Abtserde Riesling Grosses Gewachs – for considerable detail on whose terroir and history, consult my report in issue 185 – smells mysteriously musky in its evocation of narcissus, orchids, nut oils, and white truffle, which are accompanied by more predictable – even prosaic – but nonetheless lovely scents of pit fruits and citrus. Succulent, creamy, richly nutty and pit-fruited on the palate, it is saturated with the sort of diverse and in part ineffable intimations of things mineral as were encountered in the Hubacker. At the same time, there are tension and a sense of interplay as well as a sheer juicy generosity here reminiscent of the Kirchspiel. The finish is not only lusciously loaded with ripe white peach and piquant cardamom, white pepper, toasted almond, and lemon zest, but also as lip-smackingly saline as you are likely to encounter in any Riesling. Here is a union of intensity and elegance that I predict will stand the test of 12-15 years in bottle. Keller refers to the pristine transparency of a great Mosel Kabinett as “like glacial water,” and the same metaphor occurred to be in swallowing my first sip of 2008 Abtserde and of a very long day. "Two thousand eight is my vintage," proclaimed a delighted Klaus-Peter Keller, by which he meant a vintage designed to enhance the virtues of finesse, interplay Spiel, and elegance of which he has become an increasingly vocal partisan in recent years. The extra measure of refinement, flavor-delineation, and transparency as well as consistently lower alcohol that Keller is lately achieving in his dry Rieslings clearly point toward his enormous respect for the wines of Donnhoff and Schonleber on the Nahe, just as his Pinots – whose quality would shock most French or American tasters into a sudden recognition of Germany’s red wine potential – owe much to the inspiration of Chambolle’s Frederic Mugnier. (Keller regularly visits Burgundy to taste, study, and trade wines with growers. For more about his recent Pinots, see my report in issue 185.) When it comes to sweet wines – where he sets sights by the low-alcohol, feather-light, and uncannily-balanced results at Prum and Schaefer; Muller and Zilliken – Keller is certainly out of step with most of his neighbors and VDP Rhine compatriots, and in my experience has further to travel to reach his ideal. Whether his sites rather than he are a limitation in that genre – they could certainly not be much more different than steep, slate slopes – remains to be seen. But judging by the unfortunately few from among the latest crop of sweet wines that I tasted, these appear to represent a steady advance in quality similar to that perceived in the latest dry Rieslings and Pinots. (I also did not get to the estate’s non-Riesling whites this year.) Keller is not one to rest on received opinion, even when it comes to the widespread reverence among top-notch Riesling vintners for low yields and rigorous selection for maximally homogeneous grapes. “It’s meant well,” he insists, “but in my opinion can easily lead to wines that are too powerful, too concentrated, too one-dimensional, and no longer authentic: little Riesling monsters so hefty that they can no longer walk under their own steam.” There is no need to worry about the agility with which Keller’s wines walk his talk! Indeed, “dance” is the ideal word for what the best of these 2008s do on your palate. “When you tasted the grapes,” remarks Keller by way of explaining his harvest approach, “you realized that you just had to wait. By mid-November, you had a completely different set of aromas and flavors than before.” Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644, Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463, and Frances Rose Imports Inc., Huntley, IL; tel. (815) 382-9533