2019 Wiltinger Braune Kupp Spatlese Le Gallais Auction 09 20

The 2019 Riesling Wiltinger Braune Kupp Spätlese A.P. #7 Le Gallais “represents a fuder of Braune Kupp Spätlese that just really stood out,” related Lintner, though she added that a Braune Kupp auction Spätlese wasn’t initially envisioned. (The “regular” Braune Kupp Spätlese from this vintage, picked five days earlier, is A.P. #5, which I have not tasted.) There is what I consider a classic combination for Braune Kupp of lightly singed purple plum, zesty lemon and cinnamon spice, making for a forcefully pungent nose and a highly stimulating, tongue-tingling palate impression. The underlying texture, though, is polished, and there is an imposing amount of gloss. Another remarkable contrast is between this wine’s sheer intensity of flavor and its alcoholic levity. Somehow, power and delicacy coincide. The finish resonates, rumbles even when it comes to the low tones, with a piling-up of high-pitched citrus, brown spices, stone, black tea, fruit pit extracts, smoke and char, as if a wealth of stops were being pulled on a cathedral organ. “This might not be an easy wine for some tasters to understand,” suggested Lintner, “but we think it’s important to offer auction wines with a really distinct personality.” This one sure fits that description!