2017 Clonal Selection Chardonnay

Shale. 11 vineyards, 21 ferments. Sweetly cedary citrus and then plenty of oak sweetness, creamy texture and spice on the palate but beautifully balanced with the fruit. Creamy clementine. Gorgeous harmony of flavour and texture. (JH)

Dijon clones CY96, CY95, CY76 and the Entav clone CY548. From nine small parcels. Grapes were hand-picked in the early autumnal mornings, placed into small lug baskets and tipped directly into a press before being gently whole-bunch pressed up to a maximum of 0.6 bar or until a low juice recovery of 590 litres per ton was obtained. The juice gravity-flowed directly to barrel (no pumps) without settling. The unclarified juice had no enzymes or yeast added to it and therefore underwent spontaneous fermentation until dry, with malolactic discouraged. The wine rested in barrel for four months prior to judicious sulphuring and a further seven months’ maturation in barrel before racking, blending and bottling. A small number of artisanal coopers were selected, all from Burgundy and only French oak was chosen. 38% of the oak was new with the remainder split into 2nd- and 3rd-fill barrels, both 228 and 500 litres in size, with 10% left to ferment and mature in breathable eggs. First impression is: classy! There’s melon and citrus fruit under a well-cut suit of creamy oak that gives suggestions of oatmeal and clementine. The fruit flavours are richer on the palate, more stone fruit than citrus, even yellow plum, but the texture is also marked by lees and an open weave giving breadth without coarseness. Deep, generous and long, all balanced by excellent freshness. Still very young with a way to go but delicious now with a long, lightly spicy aftertaste. Full and generously fruited in the mouth but no lack of freshness. (JH)

Dijon clones 96, 95 and 76, with Entav clone 548. Mostly barrel fermentation in 38% new French oak, with indigenous yeast. Pale-mid gold. Relatively restrained white-peach aromatics, with well-judged, almond-cream and cinnamon oak. On the palate the fruit intensity takes this away from burgundy, but it is certainly in brisk, minerally, burgundian style. Long, creamy, mealy finish. Class. (TJ)