2019 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese

The 2019 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese is deep and intense on the nicely reductive yet concentrated and spicy-mineral nose that reveals a flinty/crunchy slate aroma with generous but elegant and refined fruit and subtle grapefruit aromas. On the palate, this Auslese displays a fine raisin aroma of perfectly ripe and overripe Riesling grapes, whereas the textured is highly finessed and beautifully balanced. This is impossible to spit, as the crystalline acidity is so delicate and interwoven with the fruit and texture of this persistently salty beauty. Tasted at the domain in September 2020.

AP number 22 20. Extremely pale with light-green highlights. Very restrained nose – much held in reserve! Then quite opulent floral fruit notes on the palate. Very firm finish. Only a slight step up in sweetness from the Auktion Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese 2019. Very clean and structured. Far from simple. Tightly laced strands here that will take time to unfurl. (JR)

The Sonnenuhr Auslese is not willing or able yet to share its fragrance after recent bottling, but repeated vigorous swirling reveals the merest of olfactory glimpses of ripe peach and pear. Fortunately the palate is far more generous. Deliciously sweet peach and pear are highlighted by a dash of honey, and there is just enough acidity to keep the juices flowing. If traditional has become a metaphor for boring, it doesn’t apply here. (MS)