2016 Westhofener Morstein Grosses Gewachs

Minerality, fruit, herbs, spices, you name it, Keller’s Morstein has got it. But do not expect an exercise in opulence, as all components are delivered in subtle measures and do not compete, but rather complement each other. A delightful bouquet embraces the fragrance of local orchards as well as citrus fruit, fresh green herbs join sweet spices and a dusty mineral scent. Grapefruit, lemon and lime combine fruity expression with assertive acidity and a zesty tang of piquant peel. A hint of ginger gets the palate tingling, a stony minerality cools off the agitated taste buds. A truly great Riesling, pure and very dry, but too multi-faceted to call it austere. (MS)

A powerful, high-toned nose suggests plum distillate, strongly intimating the pit piquancy that emerges on a glossy, glycerol-rich, expansive palate. Buddleia and rosemary flower also waft from the glass and then add inner-mouth allure. There is a remarkable sense of sap and energy to the long, gripping, piquant yet refreshingly limey, juicy finish. Here is another instance where it’s impossible for me to avoid imagining that an extra percentage of alcohol would have driven this highly impressive performance into overly spirituous and outright bitter territory. This year, Keller employed some of his newly acquired, ancient Mosel fuders for fermenting and aging his Morstein, and not surprisingly, he said, “I like the fit.”