2009 Vieilles Vignes Single Block Reserve Xinomavro
Prezzo di mercato
Opzioni di acquisto
Note di degustazione
The 2009 Xinomavro Reserve Vielles Vignes is a special high-altitude (620-710 meters) and old-vines (88 years) bottling. It is typically one of the winery’s claims to fame. In this vintage it spent 24 months in new French oak rather than 18, though, said winemaker Angelos Iatridis, light to medium toast. It shows at the moment and it really doesn’t help. With some oaky background, it has a certain high-toned feel and the wine has an odd dimension to it as it loses its earthy purity. I think I actually preferred the Hedgehog this year – at least now. To be sure, this is a wine with a future, which gives it a chance to absorb the oak, acquire complexity and pull itself together. It is certainly brilliantly constructed, tight, gripping and intense, built for the long term. On that basis alone, I’m leaning up a bit for potential, but it doesn’t taste much like Xinomavro right at the moment and I liked it no better the next day. This will need a few years to settle down and provide some answers in the cellar. Drink 2016-2028. Vintage 2009 was a shaky one for many wineries, but Alpha in Amyndeon seems to have done pretty well. Winemaker Angelos Iatridis said to me: “2009 was a very demanding growing season. Heavy rainfall just before flowering. Lower than average summer temperatures, combined with August rainfall, demanded yield control by green harvesting. However, an excellent dry and sunny September gave us high maturity levels in the grapes. The result was 35% lower yield than the average for Amyndeon region, and at the same time, excellent balance and concentration in the wines. Phenolic maturity reached high levels whereas the cool summer temperatures contributed to the achievement of aromatic complexity. Overall, the 2009 vintage was a real challenge because it required hard work in the vineyard and in the winery as well. If I had to describe the 2009 vintage just in a turn of phrase, it would be that 2009 could be described as the year of high precision and detailed work in the vineyard.” In nearby Naoussa, he said, the traditional heart of Xinomavro land, there were small differences – less rainfall than in Amyndeon, but higher heat at the end of August and in September. Importer: Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 549-6211
Punteggi della critica
Punteggio medio
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Mark Squires
Altre recensioni e punteggi
Very smart packaging, just a shame the bottle is so unnecessarily heavy. When they say old vines, they mean it: 88-year-old bushvines. 24 months in French oak, 12 months in bottle before release. Unfiltered. And just look at the acidity: pH 3.32, TA 6.9 g/l. Mid cherry red. Intensely aromatic with ripe sour cherry fruit, so inviting, with something almondy as well, like a vinous bakewell tart (but not that sweet). Maybe a slight volatility, like you get on some Amarone, but that just lifts the aroma further. Even after 24 months in oak, the fruit is the absolute star here in its purity and brightness and depth with the effortless intensity of old vines. So mouthwatering, the tannins firm and lithe. Great ageing potential too, if you can keep your hands off it now. This is strictly for those who like plenty of acidity in their wines. (JH)