2018 St Joseph

The Marsanne family has been farming vines in the Ardèche for generations, but only bottled their first wines in 1970. Based in the very heart of the appellation in Mauves, the family works with old vines (up to 120 years old) to make traditionally styled Saint-Joseph that is built to age. The quality here is undeniable – indeed, for many years they sold their fruit to Chave. Only a fraction, however, makes it out of France, with most of their production sold to restaurants around the country. Offering Saint-Joseph's trademark elegance, this is layered with spice, cherry fruit and floral perfume. But don't be deceived by its early allure, the juicy acidity, concentration and fine, mouth-coating tannins foretell a long life in the cellar. This is dark ruby in colour, with purple flecks. The bouquet instantly shows the wine's potential, with rich, concentrated blueberry and cherry. The tannins are mouth-coating, generous but silky, while refreshing acidity drives the palate. It ticks every box, with pepper, dried rose petal and hints of spiced cherry on the mid-palate. The finish is long and persistent. Marsanne's 2018 Saint-Joseph is showing well now, but will need time in the cellar to reveal its full potential. The ripe, crunchy fruit, juicy acidity and powerful tannins prove once again that Jean-Claude Marsanne makes wines built to age for decades. At this price and with such tiny production, this deserves a place in the cellars of Northern Rhône fans.