1999 Arbois Pupillin Vin Jaune

Of the wines chez Overnoy, the vin jaune is the one that's really difficult to find, so the chances to report about any vintage should be taken. I saw Emmanuel Houillon and Pierre Overnoy a couple of times, once at the Costa Brava in a Paulée-style dinner and once in Pupillin. I had the 1999 Arbois Pupillin Vin Jaune, which I've had multiple times in the past and know fairly well, but all of those occasions were before I started covering the Jura. As I encountered it recently, I decided to write a note about it. It's a monumental vin jaune, in the decadent Overnoy style, with plenty of volume and power, even if this time I find it a little more elegant, with an extended aging under a veil of yeasts. It has the telltale notes of rancid nuts and curry. It seems to be evolving at a very slow pace, and it's hard to predict a drinking window because the best wines in the style last forever—and this one is certainly among the best. I was tempted to pull one bottle from my cellar to retaste, but I didn't in the end; the wine is getting too scarce, and I might not be able to replace that bottle ever again... The difference in score at this quality level is possibly a question of emotion, and for sure this is a wine of emotion, so I'll go again with a top score.