2017 Crozes Hermitage Les Trois Chenes

Darnaud's 2017 Crozes Hermitage Les Trois Chênes (which I rated 90–92 from barrel last year) boasts an exciting mix of fruity and savory elements, with blueberries complemented by black olives. There are hints of menthol and charred meat in this medium to full-bodied wine. It's supple but concentrated, with a long, vibrant finish. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.

Looking at the two Crozes in 2017, the 2017 Crozes-Hermitage Les Trois Chênes comes from a mix of parcels and was 80% destemmed and brought up in demi-muids and larger barrels. Its deep ruby/purple color is followed by a terrific, almost Hermitage-like perfume of black fruits, scorched earth, ground pepper, new leather, and spice. This carries to a medium-bodied Crozes that has beautiful balance, a pure, clean, classic core of fruit, integrated acidity, and a great finish. Emmanuel Darnaud continues to make some of the best Crozes out there and readers should snatch up these wines. The young Emanuel Darnaud is unquestionably one of the most talented winemakers in Crozes Hermitage. I’d call him a rising superstar, but I think he’s already there.

Aged in a mix of 228-litre and 600-litre casks of varying ages, with 80% aged in 600-litre vats for the 2017. Deep crimson. Very winning, ripe, melted liquorice aromas. Lots of pleasure here and so much more density and complexity than the average Crozes! Lovely stuff with potential. Only just broachable in fact. (JR)