2009 Dry Red No 1 Cabernet

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot, the 2009 Dry Red No 1 offers slightly mute aromas of ripe plums, crushed blackberries and tree bark with nuances of tobacco, tea leaves, forest floor, charcoal and burnt wood. Light to medium bodied, the palate has a little bit of smokiness / ash in the mid-palate and finish, otherwise with a good concentration of berry flavors, crisp acid, firm fine tannins and a long finish. This score is assuming the smokiness will not get worse in the short to medium term and I recommend drinking now to 2015. In 2009 the bush fires that raged through the Yarra Valley in early February came dangerously close to Yarra Yering. In my opinion the 2009 range of Yarra Yering wines show signs of smoke taint. The distinctive character isn't overwhelming but it's there. Apart from the smoke taint and the fact that the wines aren't as concentrated or complex as the outstanding 2008s, they are well made and palatable. But collectors be aware, there is a slight burnt-wood / ash character to the wines, showing most in a distinctive and slightly bitter flavor at the back of the palate. Some of the wines display the character more, especially the 2009 Dry Red No 1 and the Underhill Shiraz. Research seems to suggest that the smoke taint character could become more pronounced with aging, so if readers do want to buy these wines I would recommend they drink them sooner rather than later. Importer: Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; www.oldbridgecellars.com