2017 Saarburger Rausch Auslese LGK Auction 01 18

More than half of the fruit that informed this small auction lot was desiccated, and it reflects a corresponding level of palpable concentration. Raw mushroom vies with dried apricot, gooseberry preserves and lime peel on a prickly, pungently penetrating nose. Despite notable viscosity and a honeyed impression, the palate preserves an underlying sense of firmness that accentuates the sharpness of gooseberry, lime peel and apricot kernel. No wonder the finish proves lip-curling, and spiny as well as spine-tingling. The only sensible approach if you’ve paid the high (auction) price of admission is to wait – and to hope that things turn out well. To say that this libation is more formidable than fun is an understatement whose severity fits the wine’s personality.