2017 Wintricher Ohligsberg 22 18

These vines and this site enable Haart to delay harvest and still pick with complex flavors at far lower must weight than in Goldtröpfchen. So although this wine fermented down to just one gram of residual sugar, alcohol hovers around just 13%. It doesn’t convey that sense of pushing piquancy to the point of outright bitterness that I observed from the corresponding Goldtröpfchen. There is a hint of the floral allure that was prominent in Haart’s village-level Wintricher; beyond that, lime peel and peach kernel dominate on the nose. Firmness of feel along with radical dryness, pronounced piquancy and an undertone of wet stone all pull this in the direction of austerity. But the penetrating finish delivers a surprising wealth of refreshing primary juiciness, along with animating, tongue-tingling vibrancy and saliva-liberating salinity.