2015 Assmannshauser Hollenberg Spatburgunder Spatlese

Intensely ripe cassis and dark cherry are shadowed by their high-toned distilled counterparts and accented by tamarind, nutmeg, burley tobacco and cherry pit. There is refinement of tannin and even an underlying sense of creaminess that contrasts with the corresponding basic and “Cuvée Max” bottlings, and it’s probably no coincidence that despite a higher percentage of new wood being employed here, it is less in evidence. At most, what oak brings flavor-wise is a well-integrated maple syrup-like suggestion of caramelized resin that delightfully complements the savory-saline element familiar from this year’s “Cuvée Max” – which here is even more successful in stimulating the salivary glands. The finish is palate-saturating and sustained.

The 2015 Assmannshäuser Höllenberg Spätburgunder GG is clear, intense and fresh on the nose, with intense dark berry aromas but also vegetal flavors. Smooth and round on the palate, this is a very elegant, fresh and firmly structured Pinot Noir with mealy tannins and a juicy finish with spicy, almost peppery flavors. Still terribly young and reductive, this 2015 will benefit from future bottle aging. Tasted at the "VDP Grosses Gewächs" presentation in Wiesbaden in August 2017.

Dark crimson. Sophisticated nose that does not jump out of the glass but draws in the taster. Interesting inky quality. Sweet and mushroomy on the mid palate. This wine does remind me of burgundy, with the same grip and structure. Very well done. (Not that I am necessarily seeking burgundy in all Germany Pinot...) Lift and race. (JR)