2014 Sijnn Touriga Nacional

Mid to deep garnet. Ripe, sweet and scented. Then the tannins are quite a shock after the aroma, which seemed sweet and spicy. The tannins are very firm, dry, but not aggressive, just really embryonic. There’s some oak sweetness and thickness to the texture, which needs to ease back but the whole is balanced for the long term. (JH)

Deep, virtually opaque ruby-red. Rather inky aromas of briary dark berries, licorice and wild herbs. Penetrating, pungent black fruit and sage flavors are concentrated but a bit tough in the early going, dominated by the wine's firm acidity and oak-powered tannins. A more musclebound version of the 2013--less fruity, pliant, sweet and complex--and in need of patience. Touriga Nacional, the top red variety of Portugal's Douro region, appears to have found a home in the cooler climate of Malgas, less than 10 miles from the ocean to the east of the southern tip of Africa. The Sijnn wines from bush vines on very poor soil are a project of David Trafford, owner of De Trafford Wines in Stellenbosch, with Charla Haasbroek serving as resident winemaker.

The 2014 Sijnn Touriga Nacional, which spent 21 months in barrel, has a commendable bouquet with licorice-tinged black fruit, hints of kirsch in the background with crushed violet. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, noticeable acidity with that licorice theme returning on the balanced finish that needs a year in bottle to gain a little more composure. It's a worthy and commendable take on the grape variety.