2016 Greywacke Wild Sauvignon Blanc

Southern Valleys and Central Wairau Plain. Viticulturally the background to this wine is very similar to the regular Greywacke bottlings but they select slightly riper fruit. Mainly machine-picked at night. Most racked clearish. No pied de cuve. All barriques, just under 10% new, very light toast (cf Chardonnay and Pinot). No temperature control. They aim to get about two-thirds through malo. This spontaneous-ferment version is now 20% of their production. Kevin Judd also made the Cloudy Bay To Koko early vintages, in which there was more oak and riper fruit. Slight suggestion of sweetness but no overt oakiness and a lovely satin texture. Has lasted well. (JR)

Warmest year since 1998. Much more obvious sulphur-related compounds on the nose – smoky and a touch of struck match. More elemental sulphur on the grapes at harvest (likely with organic farming) or because of the winemaking? This is lovely, deep in citrus but has such great smokiness without loss of fruit. Great length and complexity – which surprises me from such a warm year (warm in the context of NZ). (JH)

Smoky with a definite note of struck match but not overdone. Really smoky and mineral on the palate, marked by the winemaking but there's some lovely ripe peapod fruit at the core. Still very youthful. (JH)